TX replacement screen success story

My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
becoming a pain to use.

I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:

[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PA1693&Category_Code=DIG[/url]

There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
-Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
better connection.
-Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
-Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
-Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.

Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.

The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
screen and no whine.

The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?

Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

That's what screen protectors are for.


"Toby Newman" <google@asktoby.com> wrote in message
news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...[color=blue]
> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
> becoming a pain to use.
>
> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:
>
> [url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PA1693&Category_Code=DIG[/url]
>
> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
> better connection.
> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.
>
> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.
>
> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
> screen and no whine.
>
> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?
>
> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_revenge@nerdythree.net> wrote:[color=blue]
> "Toby Newman" <google@asktoby.com> wrote in message
> news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...[color=green]
>> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
>> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
>> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
>> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
>> becoming a pain to use.
>>
>> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:
>>
>> [url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PA1693&Category_Code=DIG[/url]
>>
>> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
>> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
>> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
>> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
>> better connection.
>> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
>> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
>> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
>> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
>> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
>> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.
>>
>> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
>> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
>> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.
>>
>> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
>> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
>> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
>> screen and no whine.
>>
>> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
>> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
>> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
>> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
>> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
>> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?
>>
>> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.[/color][/color]
[color=blue]
> That's what screen protectors are for.[/color]
(top-post fixed)

I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
screen brighter.

But thanks for your valued input.

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

On Sep 24, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_reve...@nerdythree.net> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > "Toby Newman" <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote in message
> >news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...[color=darkred]
> >> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
> >> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
> >> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
> >> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
> >> becoming a pain to use.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >>[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product[/url]....[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
> >> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
> >> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
> >> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
> >> better connection.
> >> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
> >> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
> >> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
> >> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
> >> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
> >> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
> >> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
> >> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
> >> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
> >> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
> >> screen and no whine.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
> >> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
> >> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
> >> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
> >> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
> >> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.[/color]
> > That's what screen protectors are for.[/color]
>
> (top-post fixed)
>
> I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
> to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
> screen brighter.
>
> But thanks for your valued input.
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Toby...some questions if you have time....

Our TX has a strange issue and I wonder if the replacement mentioned
above would fix it. It is 2 years old. All had been fine and then we
noticed that if we press on the bottom on the FIND icon, it does not
work. If we press right at the edge of the screen, below the Icon, it
is OK. Also, when entering text, there are more and more times when it
does not "echo" the correct letter...sometimes it just shows a Period.
We have changed the protector and did a hard reset and done several
screen cals...no help.

You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
Digitizer (glass?) and LCD. Not sure what I need. Their Video seems to
show that if you get the complete digitizer/screen, it just pops in.
If not, do you have to separate the screen/lcd/digitizer?

Did you have any issues with opening the TX? Some say to take 4 screws
out and pry open (as shown on the video). Others say you will break
the clips if you do that.

TIA





Reply With Quote

On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On Sep 24, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_reve...@nerdythree.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> > "Toby Newman" <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote in message
>> >news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...
>> >> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
>> >> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
>> >> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
>> >> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
>> >> becoming a pain to use.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >>[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product[/url]...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
>> >> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
>> >> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
>> >> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
>> >> better connection.
>> >> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
>> >> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
>> >> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
>> >> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
>> >> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
>> >> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
>> >> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
>> >> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
>> >> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
>> >> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
>> >> screen and no whine.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
>> >> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
>> >> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
>> >> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
>> >> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
>> >> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.
>> > That's what screen protectors are for.[/color]
>>
>> (top-post fixed)
>>
>> I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
>> to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
>> screen brighter.
>>
>> But thanks for your valued input.
>>
>> --
>> -Toby
>> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>
> Toby...some questions if you have time....
>
> Our TX has a strange issue and I wonder if the replacement mentioned
> above would fix it. It is 2 years old. All had been fine and then we
> noticed that if we press on the bottom on the FIND icon, it does not
> work. If we press right at the edge of the screen, below the Icon, it
> is OK. Also, when entering text, there are more and more times when it
> does not "echo" the correct letter...sometimes it just shows a Period.
> We have changed the protector and did a hard reset and done several
> screen cals...no help.
>
> You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
> Digitizer (glass?) and LCD. Not sure what I need. Their Video seems to
> show that if you get the complete digitizer/screen, it just pops in.
> If not, do you have to separate the screen/lcd/digitizer?
>
> Did you have any issues with opening the TX? Some say to take 4 screws
> out and pry open (as shown on the video). Others say you will break
> the clips if you do that.[/color]

It does sound like a new digitiser would help. You could test it by
using the Notepad applicaiton to see how well the screen tracks where
you draw. In fact, PowerDigi has a test mode which would do a better
job of letting you know - it may be available in the demo version.
Get it from palmpowerups.com

I got the digitizer with no LCD, yep.
The digitizer seems to be glass but has a plastic layer on it to
detect input. It's not as glassy as, say, an iPhone screen.

If you see no video corruption (black spots and things) you don't need
the LCD.

The existing LCD and touchscreen are stuck together and you have to
prize them apart with your fingernails. It's nerve-wracking, but
ultimately quite easy. Check youtube for videos - there's a german guy
who does it with a knife but I just used my hands.

Opening the TX is easy. Four torx screws (visible on back) and then
prize it apart. It clicks open quite nicely, with no damage. Watch
out for the hotsynch-cable connector, which needs to be carefully
unclipped or you'll snap it.



--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

On Sep 24, 2:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Sep 24, 6:00 am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_reve...@nerdythree.net> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > "Toby Newman" <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote in message
> >> >news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...
> >> >> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
> >> >> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
> >> >> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
> >> >> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
> >> >> becoming a pain to use.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >>[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product[/url]...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
> >> >> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
> >> >> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
> >> >> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
> >> >> better connection.
> >> >> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
> >> >> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
> >> >> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
> >> >> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
> >> >> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
> >> >> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
> >> >> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
> >> >> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
> >> >> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
> >> >> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
> >> >> screen and no whine.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
> >> >> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
> >> >> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
> >> >> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
> >> >> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
> >> >> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.
> >> > That's what screen protectors are for.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> (top-post fixed)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
> >> to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
> >> screen brighter.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> But thanks for your valued input.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Toby...some questions *if you have time....[/color]
>[color=green]
> > Our TX has a strange issue and I wonder if the replacement mentioned
> > above would fix it. It is 2 years old. All had been fine and then we
> > noticed that if we press on the bottom on the FIND icon, it does not
> > work. If we press right at the edge of the screen, below the Icon, it
> > is OK. Also, when entering text, there are more and more times when it
> > does not "echo" the correct letter...sometimes it just shows a Period.
> > We have changed the protector and did a hard reset and done several
> > screen cals...no help.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
> > Digitizer (glass?) and LCD. Not sure what I need. Their Video seems to
> > show that if you get the complete digitizer/screen, it just pops in.
> > If not, do you have to separate the screen/lcd/digitizer?[/color]
>[color=green]
> > Did you have any issues with opening the TX? Some say to take 4 screws
> > out and pry open (as shown on the video). Others say you will break
> > the clips if you do that.[/color]
>
> It does sound like a new digitiser would help. You could test it by
> using the Notepad applicaiton to see how well the screen tracks where
> you draw. In fact, PowerDigi has a test mode which would do a better
> job of letting you know - it may be available in the demo version.
> Get it from palmpowerups.com
>
> I got the digitizer with no LCD, yep.
> The digitizer seems to be glass but has a plastic layer on it to
> detect input. It's not as glassy as, say, an iPhone screen.
>
> If you see no video corruption (black spots and things) you don't need
> the LCD.
>
> The existing LCD and touchscreen are stuck together and you have to
> prize them apart with your fingernails. It's nerve-wracking, but
> ultimately quite easy. Check youtube for videos - there's a german guy
> who does it with a knife but I just used my hands.
>
> Opening the TX is easy. Four torx screws (visible on back) and then
> prize it apart. It clicks open quite nicely, with no damage. Watch
> out for the hotsynch-cable connector, which needs to be carefully
> unclipped or you'll snap it.
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Hi Toby,

Thanks for your reply. Hi, I am Ellen & I'm the user of the TX, MP is
my techie husband.

I tried the notepad as you suggested. The text was perfect & right
where it was supposed to be until I expanded the screen to the full
length. Starting at the extension (about 2/3 down the screen) and
continuing down, the characters were appearing about 1/16 to 3/32"
higher than where they were entered. Of course this is where Graffiti
is entered, so most data entry is near impossible. The LCD screen
seems to be fine. I'm not having any issues with color, spots, missing
pixels, or anything else. My unit is just under 3 yrs. old and has
always had a screen protector on it.

OK, MP again...
So, I guess you bought the PA1693. They say that you just separate the
LCD and Digitizer and then there is tape you pull off the new glass
digitizer and they stick together. I think I will pass on PowerDiGi as
it may only delay the issue. I could have sworn that the part was $40,
but now I see it is $44.95. Still worth a try as we have so much for
the TX...including s/w that I do not want to get something else.

Thank you again.

In article
<a54ee11d-055f-46c6-8ae1-201a6edbb924@k36g2000pri.googlegroups.com>,
MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
> You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
> Digitizer (glass?) and LCD.[/color]

If we're talking about PDAPARTS.COM, the answer that I got when I
asked about this is that the "complete screen" (LCD and digitizer) has
the stock plastic digitizer, just like the T|X comes with in the first
place, while the digitizer that they sell by itself is the much better
glass digitizer.

--
Our enemies shall talk themselves to death, and
we will bury them with their own confusion.
--
Remove "HatesSpam" and ".invalid" from email address to contact me.

On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On Sep 24, 2:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> > On Sep 24, 6:00 am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:
>> >> On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_reve...@nerdythree.net> wrote:[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > "Toby Newman" <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote in message
>> >> >news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...
>> >> >> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
>> >> >> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around 5mm
>> >> >> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
>> >> >> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
>> >> >> becoming a pain to use.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >>[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product[/url]...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
>> >> >> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
>> >> >> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
>> >> >> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
>> >> >> better connection.
>> >> >> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
>> >> >> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
>> >> >> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
>> >> >> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
>> >> >> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
>> >> >> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
>> >> >> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
>> >> >> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
>> >> >> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
>> >> >> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
>> >> >> screen and no whine.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
>> >> >> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
>> >> >> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
>> >> >> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
>> >> >> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
>> >> >> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.
>> >> > That's what screen protectors are for.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> (top-post fixed)[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
>> >> to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
>> >> screen brighter.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> But thanks for your valued input.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> --
>> >> -Toby
>> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Toby...some questions *if you have time....[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Our TX has a strange issue and I wonder if the replacement mentioned
>> > above would fix it. It is 2 years old. All had been fine and then we
>> > noticed that if we press on the bottom on the FIND icon, it does not
>> > work. If we press right at the edge of the screen, below the Icon, it
>> > is OK. Also, when entering text, there are more and more times when it
>> > does not "echo" the correct letter...sometimes it just shows a Period.
>> > We have changed the protector and did a hard reset and done several
>> > screen cals...no help.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
>> > Digitizer (glass?) and LCD. Not sure what I need. Their Video seems to
>> > show that if you get the complete digitizer/screen, it just pops in.
>> > If not, do you have to separate the screen/lcd/digitizer?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Did you have any issues with opening the TX? Some say to take 4 screws
>> > out and pry open (as shown on the video). Others say you will break
>> > the clips if you do that.[/color]
>>
>> It does sound like a new digitiser would help. You could test it by
>> using the Notepad applicaiton to see how well the screen tracks where
>> you draw. In fact, PowerDigi has a test mode which would do a better
>> job of letting you know - it may be available in the demo version.
>> Get it from palmpowerups.com
>>
>> I got the digitizer with no LCD, yep.
>> The digitizer seems to be glass but has a plastic layer on it to
>> detect input. It's not as glassy as, say, an iPhone screen.
>>
>> If you see no video corruption (black spots and things) you don't need
>> the LCD.
>>
>> The existing LCD and touchscreen are stuck together and you have to
>> prize them apart with your fingernails. It's nerve-wracking, but
>> ultimately quite easy. Check youtube for videos - there's a german guy
>> who does it with a knife but I just used my hands.
>>
>> Opening the TX is easy. Four torx screws (visible on back) and then
>> prize it apart. It clicks open quite nicely, with no damage. Watch
>> out for the hotsynch-cable connector, which needs to be carefully
>> unclipped or you'll snap it.
>>
>> --
>> -Toby
>> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>
> Hi Toby,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Hi, I am Ellen & I'm the user of the TX, MP is
> my techie husband.
>
> I tried the notepad as you suggested. The text was perfect & right
> where it was supposed to be until I expanded the screen to the full
> length. Starting at the extension (about 2/3 down the screen) and
> continuing down, the characters were appearing about 1/16 to 3/32"
> higher than where they were entered. Of course this is where Graffiti
> is entered, so most data entry is near impossible. The LCD screen
> seems to be fine. I'm not having any issues with color, spots, missing
> pixels, or anything else. My unit is just under 3 yrs. old and has
> always had a screen protector on it.
>
> OK, MP again...
> So, I guess you bought the PA1693. They say that you just separate the
> LCD and Digitizer and then there is tape you pull off the new glass
> digitizer and they stick together. I think I will pass on PowerDiGi as
> it may only delay the issue. I could have sworn that the part was $40,
> but now I see it is $44.95. Still worth a try as we have so much for
> the TX...including s/w that I do not want to get something else.[/color]

You've just described exactly the problem I was having, it's
reassuring to know that a screen protector wouldn't have avoided it.

I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.

You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
nerve-wracking.

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

Anyone interested in a disassembled, partially broken TX for parts?

I tried to install one of the screens, and didn't know how the little
connector worked on the digitizer. I think I put a permanent,
damaging crimp/kink in the ribbon cable that attaches to the new
digitzer, and just never bothered to reassemble afterwards. The TX
still powers on (or at least it did if the battery hasn't run out),
and the buttons work, but the digitzer won't initialize.

This was several months ago. My choice at the time was either to try
to get another new digitizer, a new TX, or a Treo. I ended up getting
a Treo 755p off of ebay, and I'm still using that today (and I'm
fairly satisfied overall)

If anyone's interested I'll send the parts via US mail to the first
interested party who emails me their mailing address.

-alan


--
Alan Hoyle - [email]alanh@unc.edu[/email] - [url]http://www.alanhoyle.com/[/url]

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 09:40:21, Alan Hoyle wrote:[color=blue]
> Anyone interested in a disassembled, partially broken TX for parts?[/color]
[color=blue]
> I tried to install one of the screens, and didn't know how the little
> connector worked on the digitizer. I think I put a permanent,
> damaging crimp/kink in the ribbon cable that attaches to the new
> digitzer, and just never bothered to reassemble afterwards. The TX
> still powers on (or at least it did if the battery hasn't run out),
> and the buttons work, but the digitzer won't initialize.[/color]
[color=blue]
> This was several months ago. My choice at the time was either to try
> to get another new digitizer, a new TX, or a Treo. I ended up getting
> a Treo 755p off of ebay, and I'm still using that today (and I'm
> fairly satisfied overall)[/color]
[color=blue]
> If anyone's interested I'll send the parts via US mail to the first
> interested party who emails me their mailing address.[/color]

Parts have been claimed.

-alan

--
Alan Hoyle - [email]alanh@unc.edu[/email] - [url]http://www.alanhoyle.com/[/url]

On Sep 24, 11:52*pm, Bob Blaylock <BobHatesS...@Blaylock.to.invalid>
wrote:[color=blue]
> In article
> <a54ee11d-055f-46c6-8ae1-201a6edbb...@k36g2000pri.googlegroups.com>,
>
> *MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:[color=green]
> > You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
> > Digitizer (glass?) and LCD.[/color]
>
> * If we're talking about PDAPARTS.COM, the answer that I got when I
> asked about this is that the "complete screen" (LCD and digitizer) has
> the stock plastic digitizer, just like the T|X comes with in the first
> place, while the digitizer that they sell by itself is the much better
> glass digitizer.
>
> --
> Our enemies shall talk themselves to death, and
> we will bury them with their own confusion.
> --
> Remove "HatesSpam" and ".invalid" from email address to contact me.[/color]

Thank you. Yes, they did say that the complete unit is NOT the glass
digitizer. Usedpdaparts does have a complete assembly with the glass
digitizer, but not sure the screen is new. I guess I can ask.

On Sep 25, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Sep 24, 2:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> On 2008-09-24, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > On Sep 24, 6:00 am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:
> >> >> On 2008-09-24, GeekBoy <nerd_reve...@nerdythree.net> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> > "Toby Newman" <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote in message
> >> >> >news:slrngdh7a3.6bi.google@ID-171443.user.uni-berlin.de...
> >> >> >> My TX screen was becoming worn around the graffiti input area, and had
> >> >> >> stopped tracking properly. To begin with it was offset by around5mm
> >> >> >> and I managed to fix this by buying a copy of PowerDiGi to recalibrate
> >> >> >> the screen. After a lot more use it eventually got even worse, and was
> >> >> >> becoming a pain to use.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> I bought a replacement screen from PDAParts:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >>[url]http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product[/url]...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> There are some videos on youtube which show 90% of how to replace the
> >> >> >> screen so I sat down and tried it - the whole job took about 40
> >> >> >> minutes and, in that time, I also tackled some other jobs:
> >> >> >> -Soldered thin wire from my motherboard to my speaker to make a
> >> >> >> better connection.
> >> >> >> -Cleaned out all the pocket fluff
> >> >> >> -Cut away at the plastic around the headphone input so that it
> >> >> >> accepted more jack plugs (often they are too wide around the neck)
> >> >> >> -Re-soldered my headphone jack to the mainboard to repair a torn
> >> >> >> solder joint, caused by carrying the pda in my pocket with a headphone
> >> >> >> jack inserted and squatting, twisting the old joint off.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> Once I'd put it together again I was very pleased with the results.
> >> >> >> The replacement screen is brighter, clearer, and the input is much
> >> >> >> smoother. It's beautifully sensitive now.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> The best unexpected side-effect of the job is that I've managed to
> >> >> >> lose the awful screen-whine which I'd reluctantly grown to ignore.
> >> >> >> Watching video in TCP-MP now is much more enjoyable with the bright
> >> >> >> screen and no whine.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> The only thing I was unable to fix was my 5-way navigator. The 'up'
> >> >> >> button and 'left' button contacts have become dirty and require a
> >> >> >> great deal of force and wiggling to get them to work: I just don't use
> >> >> >> them any more. I was hoping to clean the contacts off whilst I had the
> >> >> >> PDA open but they are enclosed in what looks like a sealed section
> >> >> >> which I was hesitant to break open. Has anyone tried doing this?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> Anyway, a highly recommended upgrade.
> >> >> > That's what screen protectors are for.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> (top-post fixed)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> I've tried them before and don't like the added resistance they give
> >> >> to the screen. They don't stop whine either. And they don't make the
> >> >> screen brighter.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> But thanks for your valued input.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> --
> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Toby...some questions *if you have time....[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Our TX has a strange issue and I wonder if the replacement mentioned
> >> > above would fix it. It is 2 years old. All had been fine and then we
> >> > noticed that if we press on the bottom on the FIND icon, it does not
> >> > work. If we press right at the edge of the screen, below the Icon, it
> >> > is OK. Also, when entering text, there are more and more times when it
> >> > does not "echo" the correct letter...sometimes it just shows a Period.
> >> > We have changed the protector and did a hard reset and done several
> >> > screen cals...no help.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > You got the digitizer with no LCD screen. For $20 more they send the
> >> > Digitizer (glass?) and LCD. Not sure what I need. Their Video seems to
> >> > show that if you get the complete digitizer/screen, it just pops in.
> >> > If not, do you have to separate the screen/lcd/digitizer?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Did you have any issues with opening the TX? Some say to take 4 screws
> >> > out and pry open (as shown on the video). Others say you will break
> >> > the clips if you do that.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> It does sound like a new digitiser would help. You could test it by
> >> using the Notepad applicaiton to see how well the screen tracks where
> >> you draw. In fact, PowerDigi has a test mode which would do a better
> >> job of letting you know - it may be available in the demo version.
> >> Get it from palmpowerups.com[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I got the digitizer with no LCD, yep.
> >> The digitizer seems to be glass but has a plastic layer on it to
> >> detect input. It's not as glassy as, say, an iPhone screen.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> If you see no video corruption (black spots and things) you don't need
> >> the LCD.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> The existing LCD and touchscreen are stuck together and you have to
> >> prize them apart with your fingernails. It's nerve-wracking, but
> >> ultimately quite easy. Check youtube for videos - there's a german guy
> >> who does it with a knife but I just used my hands.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Opening the TX is easy. Four torx screws (visible on back) and then
> >> prize it apart. It clicks open quite nicely, with no damage. Watch
> >> out for the hotsynch-cable connector, which needs to be carefully
> >> unclipped or you'll snap it.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Hi Toby,[/color]
>[color=green]
> > Thanks for your reply. Hi, I am Ellen & I'm the user of the TX, MP is
> > my techie husband.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > I tried the notepad as you suggested. The text was perfect & right
> > where it was supposed to be until I expanded the screen to the full
> > length. Starting at the extension (about 2/3 down the screen) and
> > continuing down, the characters were appearing about 1/16 to 3/32"
> > higher than where they were entered. Of course this is where Graffiti
> > is entered, so most data entry is near impossible. The LCD screen
> > seems to be fine. I'm not having any issues with color, spots, missing
> > pixels, or anything else. My unit is just under 3 yrs. old and has
> > always had a screen protector on it.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > OK, MP again...
> > So, I guess you bought the PA1693. They say that you just separate the
> > LCD and Digitizer and then there is tape you pull off the new glass
> > digitizer and they stick together. I think I will pass on PowerDiGi as
> > it may only delay the issue. I could have sworn that the part was $40,
> > but now I see it is $44.95. Still worth a try as we have so much for
> > the TX...including s/w that I do not want to get something else.[/color]
>
> You've just described exactly the problem I was having, it's
> reassuring to know that a screen protector wouldn't have avoided it.
>
> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.
>
> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
> nerve-wracking.
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.

I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
one version and hope it works for the TX.

On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:
[...][color=blue][color=green]
>>
>> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.
>>
>> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
>> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
>> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
>> nerve-wracking.
>>
>> --
>> -Toby
>> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>
> Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
> regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
> digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
> However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
> remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
> I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
> Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.
>
> I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
> one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color]

The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url]

You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.

The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.

One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
harm, but they're annoying!

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
> [...]
>
>
>
>
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
> >> nerve-wracking.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color]
>
> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url]
>
> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.
>
> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.
>
> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
> harm, but they're annoying!
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.

On 2008-09-26, MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> [...]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
>> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
>> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
>> >> nerve-wracking.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> --
>> >> -Toby
>> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
>> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
>> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
>> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
>> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
>> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
>> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
>> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color]
>>
>> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url]
>>
>> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
>> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
>> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
>> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
>> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.
>>
>> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.
>>
>> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
>> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
>> harm, but they're annoying!
>>
>> --
>> -Toby
>> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>
> Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
> screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
> somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
> work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
> graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
> would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.[/color]

That does sound like the digitiser, yes.

I also managed to squeeze more use out of my TX before the fix by
using the two alternative input methods under Prefs/Input. (Classic,
wide and keyboard)

They shift the input regions around to other parts of the digitser.

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

On Sep 27, 12:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-26, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> [...][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
> >> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
> >> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
> >> >> nerve-wracking.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> --
> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
> >> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
> >> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
> >> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
> >> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
> >> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
> >> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
> >> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
> >> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
> >> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
> >> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
> >> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
> >> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
> >> harm, but they're annoying![/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
> > screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
> > somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
> > work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
> > graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
> > would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.[/color]
>
> That does sound like the digitiser, yes.
>
> I also managed to squeeze more use out of my TX before the fix by
> using the two alternative input methods under Prefs/Input. (Classic,
> wide and keyboard)
>
> They shift the input regions around to other parts of the digitser.
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Thank you Toby. I will ask her what method she is using now. I have
looked at all the help and it does look like changing to a glass
digitizer is not too hard. It looks like the back will come off by
removing the 4 Torx screws, Some say the clips are holding it tight,
and others say to just pull hard.

The only other issue I see is that no one seems to mention removing
the metal frame from the Digitizer...or is in not glued in? Anyway,
since you got the PA1693, was it protected with film on both sides or
is there film on one side and tape protecting the glue on the other. I
saw on one post that the person did not remove the film and it did not
work.

OH, I got your screensaver but did not install it yet. That should be
funny!!

On 2008-09-27, MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On Sep 27, 12:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> On 2008-09-26, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> > On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:
>> >> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >> [...][/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
>> >> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
>> >> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
>> >> >> nerve-wracking.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> --
>> >> >> -Toby
>> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
>> >> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
>> >> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
>> >> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
>> >> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
>> >> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
>> >> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
>> >> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url][/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
>> >> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
>> >> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
>> >> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
>> >> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
>> >> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
>> >> harm, but they're annoying![/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> --
>> >> -Toby
>> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
>> > screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
>> > somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
>> > work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
>> > graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
>> > would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.[/color]
>>
>> That does sound like the digitiser, yes.
>>
>> I also managed to squeeze more use out of my TX before the fix by
>> using the two alternative input methods under Prefs/Input. (Classic,
>> wide and keyboard)
>>
>> They shift the input regions around to other parts of the digitser.
>>
>> --
>> -Toby
>> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]
>
> Thank you Toby. I will ask her what method she is using now. I have
> looked at all the help and it does look like changing to a glass
> digitizer is not too hard. It looks like the back will come off by
> removing the 4 Torx screws, Some say the clips are holding it tight,
> and others say to just pull hard.
>
> The only other issue I see is that no one seems to mention removing
> the metal frame from the Digitizer...or is in not glued in? Anyway,
> since you got the PA1693, was it protected with film on both sides or
> is there film on one side and tape protecting the glue on the other. I
> saw on one post that the person did not remove the film and it did not
> work.[/color]

No glue.
Film on both sides.

This is all pretty obvious once you get it to bits in your hands. :)
[color=blue]
> OH, I got your screensaver but did not install it yet. That should be
> funny!![/color]

Hope you enjoy it - be sure to check out my music too!

--
-Toby
Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.

On Sep 30, 1:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-27, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Sep 27, 12:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> On 2008-09-26, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:
> >> >> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >> [...][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
> >> >> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
> >> >> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
> >> >> >> nerve-wracking.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> --
> >> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
> >> >> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
> >> >> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
> >> >> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
> >> >> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
> >> >> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
> >> >> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
> >> >> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
> >> >> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
> >> >> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
> >> >> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
> >> >> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
> >> >> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
> >> >> harm, but they're annoying![/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> --
> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
> >> > screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
> >> > somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
> >> > work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
> >> > graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
> >> > would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> That does sound like the digitiser, yes.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I also managed to squeeze more use out of my TX before the fix by
> >> using the two alternative input methods under Prefs/Input. (Classic,
> >> wide and keyboard)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> They shift the input regions around to other parts of the digitser.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Thank you Toby. I will ask her what method she is using now. I have
> > looked at all the help and it does look like changing to a glass
> > digitizer is not too hard. It looks like the back will come off by
> > removing the 4 Torx screws, Some say the clips are holding it tight,
> > and others say to just pull hard.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > The only other issue I see is that no one seems to mention removing
> > the metal frame from the Digitizer...or is in not glued in? Anyway,
> > since you got the PA1693, was it protected with film on both sides or
> > is there film on one side and tape protecting the glue on the other. I
> > saw on one post that the person did not remove the film and it did not
> > work.[/color]
>
> No glue.
> Film on both sides.
>
> This is all pretty obvious once you get it to bits in your hands. :)
>[color=green]
> > OH, I got your screensaver but did not install it yet. That should be
> > funny!![/color]
>
> Hope you enjoy it - be sure to check out my music too!
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Thank you again, Toby. I got a small Torx kit from Sears yesterday. A
T5 was $3.99, but they were out...showed 6 in stock, too. But they had
a T5 to T9 kit for $9.99 so I got that. Not sure why we may need a T6
but some sites say you do. The T5 is for the back, however. Now I need
to get the PA1693 on order and I can see how badly I can mess this
up!

On Sep 30, 1:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=blue]
> On 2008-09-27, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Sep 27, 12:00*pm, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> On 2008-09-26, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > On Sep 26, 6:00*am, Toby Newman <goo...@asktoby.com> wrote:
> >> >> On 2008-09-25, MPSAN <emp...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >> [...][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> I bought the PA1693, yep, from pdaparts.com.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> You should at least try the free demo of PowerDiGi because I managed
> >> >> >> to eak another year of use out of mine before it got so bad I needed
> >> >> >> to fix the hardware. The hardware fix is quite easy but also
> >> >> >> nerve-wracking.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> >> --
> >> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> > Thank you, Toby, we can try PowerDigi now. One question I still have
> >> >> > regarding the New Glass Digitizer install regards removing the old
> >> >> > digitizer first. I know you just carefully separate it from the LCD.
> >> >> > However, in a video (not pdaparts one) it shows that first you need to
> >> >> > remove some backing foil, etc. I did not see you mention this. I guess
> >> >> > I am confused as there seems to be a few different ways of doing this.
> >> >> > Some even say there is an extra cable that is stuck down.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> > I will see if PowerDiGi works. It now looks like the download is only
> >> >> > one version and hope it works for the TX.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The foil you can see him pulling back in the first half of:[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD7dHUJgMaI&feature=related[/url][/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> You only need to pull it back enough to reveal the connector where the
> >> >> screen's ribbon cable plugs in. The connector has a little plastic
> >> >> lever - be sure to open this lever to release the old screen and close
> >> >> the lever to grip the new one. I nearly broke mine by forcing it
> >> >> before realising this detail. It's small and hard to see.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> The foil can be stuck back in place after the procedure.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> One more tip - make sure your work area is SUPER clean! You don't want
> >> >> motes of dust getting between the screen and digitizer. They don't do
> >> >> harm, but they're annoying![/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> >> --
> >> >> -Toby
> >> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Thank you...that explains it. I guess the foil is on the back of the
> >> > screen. We tried PowerDiGi, and it did help, but there seems to be a
> >> > somewhat strange area of the graffiti area where a T will not
> >> > work...especially if it is on the right of the graffiti area. The
> >> > graffiti area seems discolored...or worn. Is this the Digitizer? I
> >> > would think the LCD is below the Digitizer and may be OK.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> That does sound like the digitiser, yes.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I also managed to squeeze more use out of my TX before the fix by
> >> using the two alternative input methods under Prefs/Input. (Classic,
> >> wide and keyboard)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> They shift the input regions around to other parts of the digitser.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> --
> >> -Toby
> >> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Thank you Toby. I will ask her what method she is using now. I have
> > looked at all the help and it does look like changing to a glass
> > digitizer is not too hard. It looks like the back will come off by
> > removing the 4 Torx screws, Some say the clips are holding it tight,
> > and others say to just pull hard.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > The only other issue I see is that no one seems to mention removing
> > the metal frame from the Digitizer...or is in not glued in? Anyway,
> > since you got the PA1693, was it protected with film on both sides or
> > is there film on one side and tape protecting the glue on the other. I
> > saw on one post that the person did not remove the film and it did not
> > work.[/color]
>
> No glue.
> Film on both sides.
>
> This is all pretty obvious once you get it to bits in your hands. :)
>[color=green]
> > OH, I got your screensaver but did not install it yet. That should be
> > funny!![/color]
>
> Hope you enjoy it - be sure to check out my music too!
>
> --
> -Toby
> Add the word afiduluminag to the subject to circumvent my email filters.[/color]

Thanks again Toby. I just now got my ship notice from PDAPARTS and I
got my torx set. Now I only need to be sure the case opens without
breaking the clips and I remove the foil from the correct end. :-)

On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 10:29:59 -0700 (PDT), MPSAN <empea3@gmail.com>
wrote:[color=blue]
>
>Thanks again Toby. I just now got my ship notice from PDAPARTS and I
>got my torx set. Now I only need to be sure the case opens without
>breaking the clips and I remove the foil from the correct end. :-)[/color]

If you still have your reciept from sears, take it back. I just got a
replacement digi from PDAParts 3 weeks ago and it came with a tool kit
that included the torx, and a tool to help with the case.

A few words of advice: My TX had a thin, clear plastic sheet (like
you would use on an overhead projector) instead of the foil. It can
just be lifted.

Second: after removing the screws, and your stylus, make sure you are
prying the back of the case, not the front. the front is harder to
open, and not needed.

Lastly: When you take it all apart, and put it back together, don't
be surprised if it won't turn on. Mine didn't. after getting that
Oh Sh!t feeling, and searching the internet for a while, and taking it
apart three more times to check my connections, I finally found a site
that said to plug it into the wall and then try to turn it on. I did
that, still no help. found another site that said before you panic,
de-solder the battery from the motherboard, wait about 20 seconds, and
then put it back. Did that, and everything worked great. (although
if I had known I would be taking off the battery anyway, I would have
sprung for the upgraded battery.... :( )